SYMPTOMS
7. Rapid loss of body weight - often despite good appetite, leading to vertigo (loss of balance) and abnormal swimming pattern, (CAUTION these symptoms can be confused with same symptoms produced by physical or pressure damage to swim- bladder if present). Early symptoms later deteriorate to ulceration and fin damage probably as a result of secondary bacterial infections on damage sites caused by loss of balance. Finally if untreated, the spleen, liver kidneys and brain become infected, "Pop-eye" develops and in the last few hours, breathing rate increases to 100+ GB/min. In early stages of infection wrasse species may lose ability to close mouth.

DISEASE
FUNGAL - caused by several members of class Phycomycetes the best known of which is Ichthyophonus (=Ichthyosporidium) hoferi. May be regarded as a time- bomb ticking away in ALL fishes which lays dormant whilst the fish is not under stress. Should conditions in the system deteriorate the fungus suddenly explodes into action and the fish may die.

TROPICAL FRESHWATER & COLDWATER AQUARIA
"Spring clean" the entire tank. Treat water with Waterlife 6.5 BUFFER or HUMAQUAT if tank is a soft, acid system. Treat on days 1,2 & 3 with PROTOZIN until respiratory rate falls to a normal 60-90 GB/min. Stop all feeding until symptoms disappear.

SEAWATER AND BRACKISHWATER
Spring-clean" the filtrant media. Carry out a 25%-33% partial water change with ULTRAMARINE. Treat water with CUPRAZIN on days 1 & 2. Treat with MYXAZIN (fish only systems) on days 5, 6 & 7.

GARDEN PONDS
Carry out a slow total water change using POOLSHIELD. Treat with MEDIZIN P on day 1. Treat with MYXAZIN P on days 5,6 & 7.

PREVENTION
These diseases are extremely difficult to treat - no doubt due to the facts that:
a) they are essentially diseases of the internal organs i.e. spleen, brain, liver, etc., which are difficult to reach with medications, and,
b) apart from disease 6 (Saprolegnia), there are no easily-seen external symptoms until the disease is already well advanced.
The key to successful avoidance however is undoubtedly stated in the "type of disease" column above, i.e. keep the system scrupulously clean at all times. Never overfeed, use the Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia, pH and Hardness test kits to ensure that water management, and water chemistry are always maintained within optimal limits. In short - keep stress to a minimum so that the time bomb ticks quietly away until your fishes cheat it by dying of old age.